An English man turned Barranco local shares with us his best list of places to eat and drink in the bohemian district.
By David Stephens
I’ve lived in Barranco, Lima’s Bohemian quarter, for almost six years and during that time have written about several things that have tickled my fancy: the abandoned funicular, the romantic ‘bridge of sighs’, and some of the artists and writers who have made Barranco what it is – a laid-back, quirky place, full of life.
But what has tickled my taste buds? In other words – as a resident – where would I recommend you go for a quick bite, pisco sour, or a good cup of coffee?
Before I reveal my top ten destinations – in no particular order of importance – let me just say a few words about my criteria for selection. First – of course – the quality of its food and drink; second, its location or setting; third, its ambiance – its mood music if you like; and lastly, cost or value for money.
So, without further ado, here are my top ten eating spots and watering holes that make me proud to live – and live well – in Barranco.
- Bodega Verde – Jiron Mariscal Jose Antonio de Sucre. A lovely coffee shop that overlooks Barranco’s ‘Bridge of Sighs’, a cozy tucked-away place with a cluster of outside tables in between trees and shrubs. Writers often work best in coffee shops, and this is the place where I head out for breakfast. If it’s chilly outside they wheel out tall heaters or there are tables inside. The cost of the set breakfast is not much more than a coffee, and their specialty is a bowl of acai made with the frozen and mashed fruit of the acai palm. The emphasis is on the healthy – oh, and great coffee.
2. Merito – Av. 28 de Julio. This Venezuelan-Peruvian fusion restaurant ticks all the boxes when it comes to food, ambiance, and value for money. Its location is on a busy avenue but let’s not complain, as inside there’s seating upstairs, or it’s possible to sit at the bar and watch the chefs work their magic. Our particular magician was Koosh, a gifted chef from India who added his expertise to the Latin American fusion. Apart from Central – which I’ll come to later – this is probably the best food I’ve eaten in Barranco. For example, the fish tartar first course was memorable. And remember, we English are known for our understatement.
3. Manduco – Av. Almte, just off busy Ave. Miguel Grau 330 is next, a small Italian place run by a very welcoming Stephano, who is proud of his Italian roots, and serves up great pizzas, pasta, and Italian wine. I had a birthday party here a couple of years ago and he arranged a visiting American guitarist to serenade us whilst we celebrated with his homemade ravioli and seafood risotto. So, great on food, ambiance, and value for money.
4. Arlotia – Av. Almte. Ave. Miguel Grau 340 just around the corner from Manduco is a cozy Basque restaurant offering excellent value for money. This small dining room does everything right, from plating up delicious Peruvian-Basque fare to offering some of the friendliest services in Lima. Choose a tapas-tasting selection – you’ll get to pick six items – or order from a tempting menu of appetizers, Spanish tortillas, entrées, and desserts. Better still, go with a few friends and try a bit of everything. There are vegetarian choices, but Spanish sausages, hams, and shellfish – to mention just a handful of specialties – are spectacular. Both Manduco and Arlotia are open on Sunday evenings too.
5. La 73 – on the corner of Av. El Sol Oeste and San Martin and opposite Barranco’s Parque de los Heroes, is named after the famous 73 bus route, and it’s certainly a place to hop off a bus and enjoy some seriously good Peruvian food. Its ceviche starter followed by lomo saltado and finished off with pie de limon is my favorite ‘classic’ Peruvian three-course meal. The ambiance is cool. Think American diner with white tiles and soft rock playing in the background.
6. Juanito – Avenida Grau 270. It’s rumored that Juanito’s was a popular place in the 1960s when artists and socialists would gravitate to talk politics and change. Well in terms of this watering hole, nothing seems to have changed. A recent review on trip adviser sums up it up well, old-fashioned decor, unchanged over decades. Stand-up bar, assorted tables. Cold German and domestic beer, well-made cocktails, simple yet incredible hand-carved ham, and Edam cheese sandwiches.
7. Siete – Jiron Domeyer 260. A curious thing about many of these restaurants in Barranco is the lack of any signage. Jaunito, above has no sign, and Siete likewise, but like anywhere that’s good, just ask a local or look for a queue waiting outside. This lovely restaurant is in a renovated historic building and its food and ambiance are appropriately historic. When we visited a few weeks ago we were met with the coolest jazz list ever, Say it Over and Over, coupled with examples of contemporary South American food to match that perfectly combined music and food. Their pisco sours and cocktails, the curry fish, and their best keep secret, the tarta de queso are worth the visit. Note, like some Barranco restaurants they close early on Sundays.
8. Canta Rana – Genova 101. This is on my list if only because of its fish soup. It’s been a feature of the Barranco restaurant scene for more than twenty years and is also renowned for its ceviche, catch of the day, and fish chicharron. Traditional, unfussy, and good value for money. Oh, and the walls tell their own stories.
9. Kitcha – Ave. San Martin 154. Kitcha is a relative newcomer and is on the grounds of a museum dedicated to the work of the famous Peruvian muralist, Jade Rivera. You sit in an old courtyard below the museum and enjoy artistry of a culinary kind. When I visited recently, I had a bao capon snack inspired by Chinese cuisine involving glazed pork with tamarind. Elegant modern fusion cooking in a classy setting.
10. Central and Kjolle – Ave. Pedro de Osma 301 – is my final choice and I’m going to cheat and combine two restaurants in one. Located in a renovated colonial mansion – opposite the old tramcar in Barranco – you can choose between Virgilio Martínez Véliz’s Central – ranked no. 4 in the World’s 50 best restaurants in 2021 – on the ground floor or his partner Pia Leon’s Kjolle on the floor above. The concept for both is similar: an opportunity to showcase indigenous ingredients in a way that is inspiring, creative, and elegant. At Central – where we recently celebrated our wedding anniversary – it’s that kind of place – we indulged in the famous 11-course tasting menu with paired wines. Check out Netflix’s Chef’s Table for an early episode that features Virgilio’s inspired journey to a great chef. On my criteria of quality of food, ambiance, and location Central receives top marks. Cost? Well, some things are worth paying for. Kjolle, upstairs, is equally ambitious, if a little cheaper, but a worthwhile alternative, nonetheless.
So, my favorite ten Barranco places to eat, drink and be merry. There are other places that narrowly missed my list: Songoro Cosongo near the ‘Bridge of Sighs’; Blu on Jiron 28 Julio for its ice cream; La Panetteria, the bakery on Ave. Grau that bakes the best bread in town; or Piselli’s bar on Jiron 28 de Julio which is like stepping back in time. But don’t take my word for any of these, just head into Barranco, and let your taste buds be your guide.
Salut!
Cover photo: Flickr
