I had read several positive reviews on Isidro Bistró, the most recent restaurant under the hands of well-known Chef Carlos Testino.
With ample experience gained by leading Lima 27, Cala, 27 Tapas, Mangos, Al Fresco and other well-known brands, this was the first time, Testino was going to make an entrance into the hotel scene. Isidro Bistró is located inside the Hyatt Hotel, although it ’s main entrance door and terrace faces the street.
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Before taking one of the tables in their lovely outdoor terrace, we stepped in to take a look at the restaurant. As you enter, you can appreciate the elegance of the place with so many modern elements introduced. which gives it a casual and trendy look. The combination of materials, ranging from copper, wood, marble, stones, and rattan beautifully play out, and are the perfect scene for a good lunch with your better half, a business meeting, or some cocktails after a hard day´s work. On the left you’ll find a minimalistic bar. It’s apparently the longest one in Lima- from where wonderful creations by Mauricio de la Puente will cheer you out. In the center you’ll find an imposing glass-window room where the wines and spirits are carefully stored. Further back, you’ll find another open terrace which faces the hotel’s green courtyard. All in all, the restaurant looks elegant, but at the same time, pretty much casual due to its eclectic and modern vibe.
Looking at their menu, I will say it has a mix of Peruvian contemporary food and international dishes. For appetizers, you can find anything from Gazpacho to Burrata and Poke, and for main courses french dishes like a Steak au Poivre or an Italian Ossobucco, Fettucini or Risotto. There are certainly some Peruvian classics like the Ají de Gallina, Lomo Saltado or the Cau Cau with shrimps that I will certainly have on my next visit to Isidro. Portions are good-sized and satisfying, and prices are within the average range of restaurants around the area. As for the service, I would say it was pretty good, as it is expected in this type of restaurants.
The Food
We noticed they have several types of ceviches and tiraditos in their menu, and we opted for the Nikkei Ceviche (s./ 44). This ceviche was made with tuna fish, a cucumber chalaquita, crystalized nori, avocado cubes, and a wonderful nikkei sauce. It definitely had an oriental touch and we liked it.
We then tried the Causa (s./36). This classic Peruvian starter was presented in a very original way. On came the plate with the crab filling, the big-sized shrimps and prawns, avocado cubes, and black olive sand on the side. Nowhere to be seen was the smashed potato until the waiter takes her potato squeezer and starts pressing and pouring the smashed yellow potato into your plate. Original presentation, indeed, and nice flavors.
We also had one of their tiraditos: the Tiradito de Conchas (s./38). The dish had several scallops, sacha cherry tomatoes and radish, bathed in an intense yellow citric lemon sorbet chalaquita. Boy, it was refreshing and tasty.
We switched to the warm dishes, and we started with one of the most popular ones. We had the Arroz con pato (s./47), another Peruvian classic. The portion was fairly large and loved its intense green colors mainly due to the cilantro and green peas that adorned this dish. The rice was perfectly moist and savory, while the duck meat was crunchy and tasty. The sarsa criolla that comes along, adds additional freshness to this already succulent dish.
We also had the Catch of the day with grilled shrimps and lentil chupe juices (s./62). It was chiarella what we tasted, with some grilled good-sized shrimps, lying in a black lentil stew. The flavors were subtle and pleasant.
However, my favorite that day was the Grilled tuna, pistachio crust, veggie tempura and white fried rice (s./49). Pieces of crusted pistacchio tuna, delicate veggie tempuras, grilled slices of avocado and fresh cilantro constitute an interesting mix of flavors, colors and textures that you will easily fall for. The amazing white fried rice that comes along is the perfect addition to this well-accomplished dish.
The Dessert
It was time for dessert and we had the Churro Sandwich (s./26). The churro –the classic Spanish sugar-glazed dessert- consisted of two layers of the fine sweet crust, and in between, lúcuma ice-cream with plenty of crunchy bits of pistachio and nutella. Sinful, luscious, and not overly sweet, we could not help but enjoy it. A house favorite, and certainly mine too.
The Drinks
All drinks at Isidro have the name of a street in the neighborhood. This made me wonder how much we really know about these people that have contributed in one way or the other to the making of this country. I guess I will leave that for later as we were soon to be treated by some drinks. The first one we tried was the Mula de Isidro (s./ 36), a whisky mule with porto wine, ginger beer, and mint. It was fantastic, very refreshing and with the ginger notes coming out strongly. We loved it. We also tried the Juan de Arona (s./29), quite a popular drink amongst regulars, made with gin, wild berries and lime; simple but firm in character; we loved it. The Paz Soldán (s./ 34) came next, a mix of mezcal, vermouth, campari and ice, quite tasty and pleasant. Our last drink was the Basadre (s./31) made with pisco uvina, dry vermouth, white Vermouth, and an interesting addition poured into your drink – a drop of olive oil and Balsamic vinagre. The taste was interesting and difficult to define, I must admit. And, although not on the cocktail menu, I recommend you try the house Ginger Beer (s./12) as it is certainly worth it at every drop. Highly refreshing and for those ginger lovers, the perfect drink for this summer.
Isidro Bistro
Los Pinos 515, San Isidro
Tel. 611 11246
Menu
Breakfast buffet – Monday to Sunday – s./80
Brunch on Sundays – 11.30 – 15.30
Opening hours – Monday to Sunday 12.30 – 1 am
Appetizers – s./33 – 55
Ceviches & tiraditos – s./37 -48
Soups and creams – s./27 -62
Sandwiches & salads – s./24-41
Sides – s./ 14
Main course – s./39 – 72
Cocktails – s./27 – 36
